Croatia 2008

Route (Google Earth)

Details

Skipper: Alistair Edwards
Co-Skipper: Anne Edwards
Yacht: Activity 33, Elliott G
Charterer:Activity Holidays

Foreword

This is the log of the holiday we had in Croatia. The log is made up of notes that I took on my Palm. Times are approximate - because when there was anything to do there was no time to take notes!

Day 1: 31/8/08 Bentina Marina to Opat

Time Event
1230 Motored off
1240 Sails up fetch towards '2.8'
1320 Beat through channel - so engine on.
1340 Engine off. Settled onto a port tack 260°.
1420 Tacked onto 220°
2 more tacks: 43°44.135'N 015°28.608'E 43°44.710'N 015°28.276'E into straits then engine on into bay expecting a mooring, but guided to stern-to on a quay. Did just about everything wrong, but helped by local eventually onto quay: 43°44.330'N 15°27.184'E

Totals

Today

 

Voyage

Average speed 4.2 knots   Distance 13.2 nm
Distance 13.2nm   Time under motor 0:50
Time under motor 0:50   Time under sail 1:00
Time under sail 1:00   Total time 1:50
Total time 1:50  

Observations

Like Turkey, many sailors here seem to be German. They all seem competent - but then they all must have qualifications. They seem to stick to a bit of a routine. In particular, they seem to have a need to be under way by 1000 - even if there is no wind. There are some Austrians, Italians, and the ones who speak a language I don't recognize are presumably Croatian. Most seem to sail (and not motor) as much as possible - so enthusiasts. At the weekend, though, there were more motoring who could have been sailing.

They spend a lot of time naked.

There are a lot of yachts. It is like some big boating pond. They sail hither and yon as if they have a purpose, and yet the only real purpose is to have fun. Apart from the end of the holiday, most of us don't really need to be any where for any time, but we like to act as if we're old sea farers with a cargo to land by a certain time.

I remember when bow thrusters were invented so supertankers could manoeuvre in confined spaces - like the English Channel. Now it seems that everything over 40' has them. Whatever happened to boat handling skills?

Day 2: 1/9/08 Opat to Vrulje

Time Event
  Gentle start: climbed to view
1200 Set to leave. Rudder catching on rock so a bit tricky. Motored out. Decided to stop for swim & sort out. Windlass doing nothing. Small panic, but eventually spotted battery switched off then stopped for swim & lunch.
1445 Forecast: S-SE 4-10. Overnight calm - or N 4.
1455 Motored off. No wind, so motored to Vrulje. with no wind (definitely the 4 end of the forecast 4 to 10) there was no point going far.
1630 Picked up a mooring buoy (the last one!). Got something right first time at last!
Although the quays seemed quite full, more yachts kept coming in and found space. Nearly all German and usually seem very competent.
Read, snoozed, snorkelled. Ate on board. Germans very noisy ashore. Watched a thunderstorm to the north. Seems a long way off and petering out - but battened down anyway - just in case.
2145 Could not receive forecast.
  Rain but no thunder over night

Totals

Today

 

Voyage

Average speed 4.1 knots   Distance 25.1 nm
Distance 11.9nm   Time under motor 5:20
Time under motor 4:30   Time under sail 1:00
Time under sail 0:00   Total time 6:20
Total time 4:30  

Day 3: 2/9/08 Vrulje to Peškera Marina

Time Event
0745 Could not get forecast.
  Breakfast
  No water - why did we trust them when they said they had filled it? I really should have learned that you check everything.
Motored over to quay. No water available. Peškera marina.
1010 Motored around. Wind light.
1110 Water only available 0800-1000, so booked in for a night. Took on supplies.
1240 Motored out for a day sail. Some wind (force 3 SSE) so sails up. Port tack 210° - just for fun. Sails quite well, full and by ~3 knots.
1355 Wind dropping. No point going further out just to have further to come back, so gybed at 43° 41.930'N 015° 17 .567'E onto starboard beam reach, 020°, making 2 knots at best.  
1425 Not a lot of point to this. Engine on.
1445 Forecast: Isolated thunderstorms.
1510 Anchored off at 43° 46.265N 15°19.648' E
1720 Motored off.
1800 In the marina. 43°45.6'N 015°21.0'E.
Read. restaurant.

Totals

Today

 

Voyage

Average speed 3.9 knots   Distance 42.5 nm
Distance 17.4 nm   Time under motor 8:05
Time under motor 2:45   Time under sail 2:45
Time under sail 1:45   Total time 10:50
Total time 4:30  

Day 4: 3/9/08 Peškera Marina Luka Zut

Time Event
1030 Wind E. Motored off.
1050 Out of harbour wind SSE Force 1 dead run (goosewinged) on 290°. Difficult with light wind & a bit of sea knocking wind out of sails.
1105 Wind veered a bit, so broad port reach. ~2-3kn
1223 Wind swinging about a bit beam reach, broad reach, even back to run.
1301 Gybed onto starboard to pass to east of Sestrica.
1330 Engine on for passage through channel.
Passing through Prolaz Proversa Vela was interesting. Very pretty - but no time to take pictures. Lined up on the leading marks, but still it got very shallow.
1353 Engine off. Sailed into Luka Zut, over to eastern corner 43°52.664'N 15°19.085'E. Anchored for a snooze and tea.
1640 Motored off and around to bay at 43°52.515'N 15°17.767'E . Anchored in 10-12 m. Anchor well dug in sand.
Excellent snorkelling. Lots of fish
2145 Forecast: Warning - North Adriatic slight possibility of sudden thunderstorms. Central & southern Adriatic SE 5-15knots. Sea smooth/slight. Viz - clear.

Totals

Today

 

Voyage

Average speed 3.8 knots   Distance 55.1nm
Distance 30.0nm   Time under motor 9:03
Time under motor 0:58   Time under sail 5:25
Time under sail 3:40   Total time 14:28
Total time 4:38  

Day 5: 4/9/08 Luka Zut to Pašman

Time Event
0745 Forecast: Warning of isolated storms in N Adriatic. Central Adriatic: (direction indistinct) 5-15 knots. Sea smooth/slight. Viz 10-20km
0745 On the anchorage SE 10 knots.
1055 Motored off & over to marina for victuals.
1115 Motored off. Quite wind (SE force 4) so set 2 reefs and small genoa. Reach, bit of a run, goosewinged. Full genoa now.
1314 Approaching bridge. (44°01.0'N 015°15.6'E) Wind moderating.
1351 Sails up-2 reefs in main & ~1/2 genoa. Making 090° on starboard tack, 190° on port. Sailed quite well.
1600 Some indecision about destination. First thought was Pasman, anchor in bay to south if full. Then read pilot that bay not good for over-night, so thought Mrljane/Barossoul (43°58.223'N 015°21.507'E) instead - anchor off if full. However, going in it was very shallow - not even sure it was safe to enter harbour. Looked around, came out. Motored to Pasman. Room alongside harbour wall, behind gin palace (with strong smell of aftershave).
1725 Moored, afternoon tea over. At 43° 57.437' N 15° 23.329' E
2145 Forecast: N & Central Adriatic - SE 10-20, locally 25. Sea slight/smooth. Viz - moderate-good.

Totals

Today

 

Voyage

Average speed 4.6 knots   Distance 72.3nm
Distance 17.2nm   Time under motor 10:05
Time under motor 1:02   Time under sail 10:48
Time under sail 5:23   Total time 20:53
Total time 6:25

Day 6: 5/9/08 Pašman to Betina Marina

Time Event
0745 Did not hear any forecast, only navigation warnings. Did they forget to broadcast it, or did I miss it? Navigation warnings interesting, though mostly elsewhere: current meters and all sorts. One which was relevant was a regatta which was coming to Biograd - keep clear. (No time for contemporaneous notes, so this is all retrospective. Also poor GPS coverage, so might not have all the tacks.)
1130 Motored off. Wind SSE F3-4
1150 Sails up. Wasn't sure so put 2 reefs in then full genoa. That was how we stayed and was okay. Wind did come and go a bit and I sometimes wondered about taking in some genoa.
Spotted a dinghy floating upside down. Tried to recover it - but only succeeded in losing the boat hook.
All day beating up the channel. Wind stayed SSE F4. Seas not too choppy. Quite busy at times - including the race, I think.
1305 Hove-to for lunch.
Beat on between islands and shore.
1630 Moored in marina.

Totals

Today

 

Voyage

Average speed 4.8 knots   Distance 87.4nm
Distance 15.1nm   Time under motor 10:25
Time under motor 0:20   Time under sail 15:28
Time under sail 4:40   Total time 25:53
Total time 5:00  

Activity Holidays

Although they offer bareboat, they're really geared up for flotilla. No one seemed to believe we really wanted to do our own thing, they seemed to think we would end up joining the flotilla. Seemed quite surprised we didn't want to join the barbecue.

'You can only get weather forecasts in Croatian.' Well that was just plain wrong, and he might have been expected to know if he had briefed other bareboaters.

Gary, the boss, particularly, seemed sceptical. I am sure he has the welfare of his customers and boats as priority, and probably has had bad experience of having to divert his attention from his flotilla to help out distressed bareboaters but if they cannot support bareboaters, they should not offer the service. He admitted it was more of a flotilla operation.

On 6/9/08 we were in Betina. The flotilla was due out tomorrow, but Gary said with the forecast they would not be going. He seemed to be hinting he would prefer us not to go, but would not say it, even when asked directly. He kept hedging with 'But you have a lot of experience.' and the like.

The boat was old - and not very well maintained. I suppose it was cheap too, but it could have been better maintained. The worst was when I pointed out we had no anchor light and Dave told me I was wrong, that we did have one. We did not, but presumably that was easier than fixing it. They were also wrong when they said the water tanks were full. That might have been a communication break-down, but it was still annoying.

No clock or barometer.

It's not just because they're small (i.e. not Sunsail/moorings). We've used small outfits before and they have provided very good boats - Nasos's own, last year.

In their favour, though, I have to say that when we called at the base mid-holiday, they did put a lot of effort into making sure the boat was ok. Also, when we had a break-down, they did put effort into getting us up and running again. We were lucky that Tom's flotilla boat was only a few miles away - but then it was part of the deal that we would stay in the flotilla area to be able to get support.

Day 7: 6/9/08 Betina Marina to Potkucina (Kakan)

Time Event
0600 Forecast (from marina): First 12 hours: SE 5-15, in places in North & Central Adriatic up to 20, mainly in open sea. Sea 2-3, in open up to 4. Viz 10-20km. Next 12 hours: Light to moderate SE. Sea smooth/slight.
Boat refuelled & fixed: new water pump & anchor light and drawers fixed.
Much debate about what to do/where to go. Gary seemed to have a different forecast from us, so he did not want people to go out, and said he would not be taking the new flotilla out at all tomorrow. I got the feeling (again) that he really wanted us to say we would join the flotilla, but he would not say that, even when asked directly for advice. Then fitting the light took so long that again I thought he was trying to induce us to stay. Eventually though, when asked he suggested we could go to Kakan or Kaprije. So as soon as we could we set off planning to go to Kaprije (more shelter).
1445 Forecast unintelligible.
1450 Set off, under motor via '2.8'.
1515 Sails up. Port tack. Two reefs and about 2/3 genoa. Was comfortable most of the time. About a force 4 from the SE. Sea a bit lumpy but if you watched for the short ones, then you could avoid slamming.
1840 43°44.304'N 015°36.345 Getting on, sun setting-so engine on. In view of the lateness, decided to head for Kakan, which is nearer, and pick up a mooring or anchor if necessary.
1915 Anchored. Lot of yachts in here - including an enormous one (Ohana). Got our new anchor light on - and all the other lights too (?!) Covered over the ones which should not be showing, just to be correct and avoid confusion.
Sea calm here, but still blowing 5kn.
2110 Shower off the back.
2145 Forecast: Warning of possible isolated thunderstorms in Northern Adriatic. Central Adriatic - SE 5-15kn, locally 20 at sea. Afternoon: SE/SW 4-12. Sea smooth/slight. Viz: 10-22km (locally 4 in mist). Cloudy.
Quite windy on the anchor over night - but sea very calm.

Totals

Today

Today

 

Voyage

Average speed 4.7 knots   Distance 106.1nm
Distance 18.8nm   Time under motor 10:50
Time under motor 0:25   Time under sail 19:28
Time under sail 4:00   Total time 30:18
Total time 4:25

Day 8: 7/9/08 Potkucina (Kakan) to Šibenik

Time Event
0745 Forecast: Warning: Sudden storms possible in Northern & parts of Central Adriatic. Central Adriatic - Winds: SE, off coast SW 4-12, at night offshore W-NW 6-16. Sea: smooth. Viz: 10-20km. Light overcast. At night thundery showers.
0900 Swim. Breakfast. Wind 4 knots on mooring.
0945 Changed gas bottle. Wind now practically non-existent - but from NW.
1035 Motored off.
1055 Anchored in Remetic. Lifeboat also there. Good snorkel. Morning coffee.
1156 Wind has come in: South 11 knots. Blowing us a bit too close to the shore now.
1210 Motored off.
1220 Sails up. Left 2 reefs in main for now. Full genoa. P tack, Dead run 300°. Wind SE.
1230 Gybed then hardened onto close hauled 105° at 43°43.205'N 015°40.143'E. Wind SSE
1323 Bore away onto 55°, starboard beam reach. Around head of Kaprije then close-hauled to tip of Zmajan. Carried on close-hauled and then realized we could bear away for the Sv Anate Channel.
1410 Motor on at 43°43.097'N 015°50.809'E
1445 Forecast was a bit broken up, but as far as I could make out, wind was back to SE-SW, 4-14knots, still expecting thunder showers.
1500 Moored stern-to on Sibenik town quay. Given assistance with lazy line - and then he told us it would cost us 200 Kuna to stay the night. No mention of that in the pilot books! Ah well...
Big yacht next door: Rosehearty registered in Douglas.
Wandered up to the castle. Rested. Ate and drank ashore.
Occasional wind in the night. Shower - but no thunderstorms.

Totals

Today

 

Voyage

Average speed 4.6 knots   Distance 121.2nm
Distance 15.1nm   Time under motor 12:10
Time under motor 1:20   Time under sail 21:18
Time under sail 1:50   Total time 33:28
Total time 3:10  

Day 9: 8/9/08 Sibenik to Skradin

Time Event
0745 Forecast not heard.
0855 Motored off. Wind calm.
1035 On the marina in Skradin (43°49.0'N 015°55.5'E).
Very big gin palace: O'Ceano - pun? Greek, not Irish.
Visited Krka waterfalls. Wouldn’t want to go on a busy day!
1445 Heard some of the forecast. Warning of possible thundery showers. N-NW 4-14.
Evening Took on water. Ate ashore (Gnocci).

Totals

Today

 

Voyage

Average speed 4.2 knots   Distance 131.2nm
Distance 9.99nm   Time under motor 13:50
Time under motor 1:40   Time under sail 21:18
Time under sail 0:00   Total time 35:08
Total time 1:40

Day 10: 9/9/08 Skradin to Vela Nozdra (Kaprije)

Time Event
0745 Forecast not heard.
Shopping. Breakfast.
Forecast from marina: NW 8-18, possibly up to 24 in places along the coast & again during night NE 4-14. Sea: 2-3, in open 4. Viz: 20km Outlook: 10/9 Moderate NW. 11/9 light to moderate NW.
1030 Motored off. Wind calm.
1130 Motoring through the canal, suddenly the exhaust note changed and the engine stopped spitting water. Made for the nearest anchorage: 43°43.8'N 015°51.4'E. Sure enough, a warning started. Anchored without a problem. Went snorkelling while the engine cooled.
It was apparent that the drive pulley on the new coolant pump was broken. It was going round, but not driving the pump. Nowt for it but to phone Gary. He contacted Tom who phoned and then later arrived in Stella.
Ended up doing a repair on the pump - but giving us the (more reliable) one from Stella.
I was sorry to have to have called for help, but I think there was nothing else I could have done. The problem was no fault of ours and in practice I think we did all we could have to minimize the problem - spotted it before an alarm even went off and stopped engine as soon as was safe.
1445 Forecast: Warning - Over South & Central Adriatic risk of NW gusts of 35kn. Central Adriatic - Wind NW 8-18. Overnight, off-shore NE 4-14. Seas - smooth-slight. Viz - good.
1500 Pump installed. Weighed & motored off.
1530 Sails up. Kept in 2 reefs in main but full genoa. Beat - with slight deviations to avoid islands. Regardless of any forecast the wind was no further N than WSW or maybe W, 10 knots.
  Going S of Zmajan winds were just like Farnham!
Mali Nozdra looked quite busy and - contrary to Bestandig - not uninhabited - a restaurant? so to Vela Nozdra: 43°41.126'N 015°43.438'E
There were 3-4 yachts in here already, but a good space for us in about 6m, but well sheltered. Three more arrived and anchored behind us.
1938 Wind is in NW. Still 9 knots on the anchorage, but sea is calm.
2033 Dinner onboard - spaghetti Napolitan - excellent. Calmer on the mooring now.
2145 Forecast: Winds along coast calm or NE, tomorrow NE 5-16. Seas: calm-smooth.
2230 The late-comers weighed anchor and left. Not sure why or where.

Totals

Today

 

Voyage

Average speed 5.1 knots   Distance 152.7nm
Distance 21.5nm   Time under motor 15:20
Time under motor 1:30   Time under sail 23:18
Time under sail 2:00   Total time 38:38
Total time 3:30  

Day 11: 10/9/08 Vela Nozdra (Kaprije) to Privic

Time Event
0745 Forecast: no warnings. Winds: calm or NE 5-14, later NW 5-15. Seas: calm-smooth. Viz: moderate-good.
0925 Breakfast - with a lot of wasps. One of the other yachts leaving (must leave, it's nearly 10 - even if there is no wind) seemed to get fouled up with a line from a fishing boat.
1130 Motored off.
1140 Full sails up. Wind NW 10 knots.
1340 Hove-to for lunch. Drifted from 43°40.186'N 015°40.179'E to 43°40.006'N 015°40.731'E.
1350 Off again. Beat around N of Kakan, reach across to Kaprije then broad reach (sometimes running) to Tijat. Dead run, goosewinged to Privic Island, then broad S reach into inlet at Prvic town.
1700 Moored stern-to on quay. 43°43.416'N 015°47.993'E.
220kuna - but that gave us possession of a key to the shower and toilet, as well as electricity, once the sun 'had gone to bed.'
Ate ashore - 'dumplings'. Sleep a bit disturbed by church clock chiming the hours and half-hours. The clock is wrong, but the chimes are on time.

Totals

Today

 

Voyage

Average speed 4.5 knots   Distance 173.1nm
Distance 20.4 nm   Time under motor 15:40
Time under motor 0:20   Time under sail 28:28
Time under sail 5:10   Total time 44:08
Total time 5:30  

Day 12: 11/9/08 Privic to Sv Nikola

Time Event
0745 Forecast: Overnight & morning: calm or NE 4-14, afternoon SW or NW 6-16. (SW - good, a reach, NW a beat...)
0900 Went to Faust Vrančić museum - closed. Mis-read the times - 7-10 pm. So we could have gone last night. Damn. Shopping. Breakfast.
1025 Motored off. Wind calm.
1046 Anchored at 43°43.020'N 015°46.248'E Wind 3knots SE.
1143 Wind veering round to w, but not yet noticeably stronger. Snorkel. Lunch. Snooze.
1431 Wind 5knots W on the anchorage. Still not a lot, but time to go.
1504 Engine off at 43°42.312'N 015°45.703'E. Port tack 325°. Wind W 5 knots.
1525 Not going to fetch tip of Tijat. Bit of engine.
1530 Clear. Port tack 310° making 4 knots.
1606 Pinching again, this time around Prisnjak. Made it this time but down to 5m.
1615 Winds dropped. So engine on.
1700 Anchored. Felt a bit close to shore. So when another yacht left we moved over a bit. Still not dead sure. Quite close to another yacht astern, so cannot let out as much scope as I'd like, but didn't drop anchor further out because too deep - dilemma. Maybe this guy is not staying?
1830 Not happy, so re-laid anchor further out, in deeper water but able to lay out more scope, so more secure and clear of everyone else.
Ate on board. Early night.
2230 Three yachts came in and moored stern-to off the outside of the quay. I was a bit surprised; it seemed quite shallow off there when I snorkelled round. Bows-to possibly, I had thought, but not stern-to. They moored and then partied noisily - shouting and singing.

Totals

Today

 

Voyage

Average speed 4.0 knots   Distance 186.4nm
Distance 11.2nm   Time under motor 17:24
Time under motor 1:44   Time under sail 29:34
Time under sail 1:06   Total time 46:58
Total time 2:50  

Day 13: 12/9/08 Sv Nikola to Betina Marina

Time Event
0745 Forecast: Warning - In north sudden squalls possible in afternoon. Central Adriatic: winds - SE or SW 4 -12. Sea - smooth-slight. Viz - moderate-good. Variable clouds. Rain or thundery showers in afternoon.
0920 Swim & snorkel. Germans left. Breakfast.
No wind, so no hurry to leave. Read.
1250 Wind getting up - so lunch.
1330 Motored off.
1345 Sales up. Port reach 305°. Wind SSW 5 knots.
1425 Wind has dropped, so engine on.
1503 Through 2.8 bit of wind so sails out for last beat. Played in the bay for a while.
Hove-to for afternoon coffee.
1600 Motored in.
1620 On quay 43°49.646'N 015°36.100'E

Totals

Today

 

Voyage

Average speed 3.7 knots   Distance 196.7nm
Distance 9.52nm   Time under motor 18:17
Time under motor 0:53   Time under sail 31:11
Time under sail 1:37   Total time 49:28
Total time 2:30